A Few Days In Kathmandu
Hi Everyone. I’ve been shooting a bit here. Here are some notes.
Some days I walk to the World Education office and some days I go to a local coffee shop to work on the suitcases. Coffee Escape in Lazimpat has really good wifi and an interesting view of Kathmandu traffic out the front window.
I almost always see these dogs while walking from the hotel to Coffee Escape. They hang together and sleep wherever they want. Today, a security guard at one of the nearby businesses was chasing them away from their usual spot. They were back by the time I returned though.
This is Ramesh Mainali. His business is Shrawan Handicrafts and it is where we go to buy pashmina. He is a great fellow and was introduced to us by his childhood friend Narayan Thapa who works the desk at the Hotel Tibet.
Narayan often stops by for a chat on his way home from work.
I have never been to Nepal during monsoon and it is amazing to see all the flowers, fruits, and vegetables in the shops. It hasn’t rained much at all since we got here, but India is apparently getting hammered. There was some flooding in Kathmandu before we arrived, but it hasn’t even rained every day. When it does, it’s nice as it keeps the dust down.
There are shrines to Hindu gods everywhere. Here is a little shrine to Hanuman. When ever you see him, he is dressed up with clothing.
We are kind of obsessed with dogs here. This guy (and I wrote his name down somewhere; if I can find it I’ll update) was hanging out at the amazing Saturday Farmer’s Market at the LeSherpa restaurant. As I have mentioned before, you can’t really mess around with them, but this fellow had a collar which indicates that he belongs to someone. He was totally trying to cage some cheese from the cheese booth and he sat there like a statue. Everybody seemed to know him and he was super friendly and was open to being pet.
We bought a couple bottles of achar pickle from these folks; lime and radish. Their business is called AMĀKO, and the samples were amazing.
I bought a couple of these cookies and they were amazing.
Amazing breads too.
I am guessing that this is some kind of kohlrabi, but it is hard to know. You can see the corn to the right. Lots of sweet corn here and you can see people roasting it on the streets for sale.
I had read an article about the market in one of the local English language newspapers and they were touting the “Say No To Plastic” campaign. This market was so wonderful and would rival many that I have been to in the US.
My friend Katie Harhen was asking about the 2015 earthquake and how the country is recovering. Here is a (rather disorientating, I am standing on the pavement looking up) shot that shows what one still sees around Kathmandu. There is a building boom here, but most of the new structures are commercial in nature and fairly big. Some of the temples in the city have been rebuilt, but there is still evidence of the quake.
I love walking around the city looking in shop windows. This business was (among other things) a shop that made trophies. Football, dancing, basketball, tennis!
We always go to Bodinath to walk around the stupa. I posted about it last year.
This year was totally different for us. First of all, it was jammed with people. I have mentioned before that the area is an interesting mix of religion and commerce. It is such a peaceful and comfortable place.
This room is up a flight of stairs and has always been closed off to the public on our previous visits. We were invited in this year (not sure why, really) and were encouraged to walk around and check out all the Buddhas. Lastly we were encouraged to sit on the mat in front of the monk on the left, where he chanted and blessed us. It was strangely moving, and felt like something very important had just happened.
On Sunday we had a bit of shopping to do so we went to Thamel. I’m always on the lookout for shrines to Ganesh. Here he is being protected by a couple of Naga.
We had told our friends Ken and Kitty that we would buy a carpet for them, so we went back to our favorite shop to see what we could find. The guys at Carpet House are so nice and helpful. Lovely shop and fair trade too!
We had also promised our friend Suzan that we would get her a lungi (check out this how to video!). The one we bought started out as a single piece of cloth that was not sewn closed. The woman in the orange sold it to us in her shop, but said that she knew a tailor that could sew it up. She escorted us up the street, but couldn’t find him right away. After asking a bunch of different people she led us up a steep flight of stairs and introduced us to this gentleman with his treadle sewing maching. Sorted it out in 5 minutes. His shop had been at street level, but was leveled in the quake, so he moved across the street and upstairs.
Here is a happy Cris outside of his shop.
Thanks for following along. Sometimes I feel a bit like the neighbor back in the 60’s who would travel and then drag you over to his house to show his (always the dad in the family) slides from some “exotic” vacation. Anyway cheers everyone.
Kathmandu Walk
Cris and I usually walk to and from the Hotel Tibet to the World Education office, but since it is monsoon and has been raining in the mornings we only walk back at the end of the day. It takes about 45 minutes and, while it can be a bit sweaty and dusty, I really look forward to it. Yesterday I stopped to take the picture below and then this young man shot me this lovely smile.
It is interesting to be in a country where so much work is still done by hand.
Thanks for following along.
Nepal Again
Hey everyone! We are back in Kathmandu and that means one thing. Masala paper dosa time. Cristine’s favorite food. I love ’em too.
I will attempt to post regularly here and will almost certainly post daily on my instagram site @jonkcrispin.
Cheers and thanks for following.
Ashley Reservoir
Peter is taking the GREs today (please wish him luck) in an industrial park in West Springfield, MA and Cris and I have a few hours to fill. Friends had told us about the Ashley Reservoir which is nearby so we decided on a walk. This place is amazing. Less than 5 minutes off the 91 and so peaceful.
The fact that this place is so close to the Holyoke Mall and a major highway makes it even more surprising.
What is especially cool is the ability to walk across these causeways and feel like you are in the middle of a lake. Almost like walking on water!
Next time any of you are driving through Western Mass, take Exit 15 off the 91 and you are there. Sadly, no doggies though.
Trip to Central New York
This past Wednesday my pal Craig Williams hired me to take some photographs of the old Lock 52 in Port Byron, NY. It is now an historic site with a great visitor center (open seasonally).
The entrance to the site is off the New York State Thruway and is really interesting and well worth a stop if you are driving East.
These limestone blocks are enormous.
Craig had me photographing some views to match historic photographs of the lock when it was still in use. We worked for a bit before lunch which was at a really great diner in Port Byron. I sat facing this flag, which I had seen before but never understood.
Here is the text from the card above the stars. “This is a police flag. Each strip on the emblem represents certain respective figures. The blue center line represents law enforcement, the top black stripes represents the public, the bottom black stripes represents the criminals.” I hesitate to be negative here, but as someone who is really interested in design as a way of conveying ideas, this seems completely wacky to me. / Great lunch though, fine diner with nice people.
I am really digging this fish display on the wall above our table. Award winning!
At lunch Craig mentioned that Brigham Young lived in Port Byron before heading west and that his house was still standing but in rough shape. Some work was started on a restoration, but due to poor health of the two contractors, it was stopped.
The plaque on the door reads “This wood frame house built by James Pine circa 1818 and later occupied by Brigham Young and family. Young’s first child a girl named Elizabeth, born here September 1825.” Given the Mormon’s interest in history and genealogy, I was shocked to see this property is such a state of neglect and apparent disinterest by the church.
A restored tavern is on part of the historic canal site. These bottles sit atop the bar, which is partly original. It seems rye whiskey was seriously popular in the 19th century. / After Port Byron I drove down to Ithaca to spend the night with my friends Brad and Tania.
Their house is filled with great things including tons of Fiestaware.
A trip to Ithaca is never complete without a visit to the Lincoln Street Diner.
Peter had just received the latest OSMO camera and we got the chance to goof around with it.
Very cool.
Lookin’ good Sport!
Thanks for following. Happy Holidays.
Things
Not much to say tonight. / Lots of photographs of these binocular things at tourist sites, but the design of this one at the Quabbin Reservoir Tower is lovely.
I bought this little Ganesh thingy in Kathmandu. If you unscrew the top Ganesh, it allows you to open up six little hinged compartments underneath him.
Have a great week everyone. Please vote.
Travel / Willard Suitcases Documentary / St Crispin’s Day
Yesterday morning I drove out to Ithaca to begin work on the suitcases documentary that I am working on with Peter Carroll and Deborah Hoard.
After a quick lunch at the Lincoln Street Diner, Peter and I drove up to Willard to shoot some B-roll in the Cemetery.
It is a special place to visit in so many ways. When I took this photograph, the smell of mint was intense. It seemed odd that it was so healthy this late in the year.
We are in the beginning stages of figuring out how to document my work with the suitcases. The point of this early filming is to to create a short piece that will help us raise funds. We will probably run another Kickstarter campaign, which I expect will be up in the early part of next year.
It was a beautiful day on the lake. Chilly and breezy, which is to be expected in late October. I can’t emphasize enough what an amazing spot this is. The fact that 5,776 former Willard patients are buried here makes for an emotional experience.
With the help and encouragement of the wonderful Peggy Ellsworth and Craig Williams, we were given access to the Romulus Historical Society to film the interview today. It worked out really well (even though the heat is currently off in the building).
Peter is a genius in setting up lighting for interviews. This is a frame grab from the video. I am looking a bit stern in this shot, but I do smile from time to time. It was a really productive day and I was reminded of how great it is to work with Peter and Deb.
The historical society has a few suitcases that for some reason never made it into the main collection in Albany. It was nice to be able to use them in the setup.
I have driven past this winterized travel trailer on Route 96 repeatedly and finally stopped to take a few photos. I love how the little wheels are covered too!
Today is St. Crispin’s Day. I usually try to drink a load of Cognac to assist me in feeling a connection to the French and English soldiers who died at the battle of Agincourt. If this post is a bit wordy, I’ll blame it on the bottle of Hennessy that seems to be emptying at a rather steady pace. Check out the amazing Olivier in the 1944 version of Shakespeare’s Henry V.
Thanks for following. Be well.
Symbols
Whenever I am here in Nepal I always keep an eye out for bricks, as seeing them makes me think of my good friend Richard Pieper. Most buildings are adorned with them, and the walls surrounding the Royal Palace are all brick. On our daily walk to the World Education office we pass by a large section of the Palace wall which is undergoing a post earthquake renovation. I saw this pile and noticed the markings and didn’t think much of it at the time, but the next day I stopped and took this picture. It is not at all uncommon to see the swastika used as a symbol in various ways around Nepal. It got me thinking about how we in the West are so conditioned to see the obvious negative aspects of it. I went to the wiki page and learned a lot of interesting facts about its history and usage. I would encourage anyone interested to check it out. What got to me especially was that under the section of the wiki that showed the varieties of swastikas, the Hakenkreuz (second row, bottom left) gave me a visceral reaction.
We head back to the US on Sunday. I have managed to pick up a bothersome cold and have been a bit less active than I would like, but Cris’ work ends today and we will have some time to goof around tomorrow and Sunday morning. Thanks for following.
Dosa at Angan, Lazimpat, Kathmandu
Coming to Kathmandu always means getting quite a few paper masala dosa over the course of our stay. We go to Angan in Lazimpat which is about a 5 minute walk from the Hotel Tibet. (Crossing the street is the most difficult part in getting there.) In the middle of that rice flour crispy pancake is an amazing mixture of potato and spices. I really think Cris could eat these every day, and at times I think she has. That is Darrell Earnest on her left. Darrell does the early grade math portion of the World Education/Unicef project on which Cris does the reading component. (I hope to write a post soon about the work they are doing here; it is really amazing.)
Just outside the door of Angan is this telephone switching box. I think this is one of the most perfect logos that I have ever seen.
Nepal 2018
We tried something different this year on our trip to Kathmandu. Instead of going through Dubai we opted to fly Qatar Airways through Doha. It was a nice long flight and the Doha airport is wild. Here is the giant teddy bear with a lamp on its head. Quite bizarre.
The flight to Kathmandu from Doha was 4 1/2 hours and I was getting a bit tired and bored.
It is always great to get off the plane and be in Nepal. You can deplane from the front and back just like in Long Beach!
They have renovated our usual room at the Hotel Tibet. Brilliant sunset last night from our window. / We have today to goof around before Cris starts her World Education work tomorrow. Cheers and thanks for following.
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